Across the States in 20 days: back to Portland the (extra) long way

At the end of June, I flew into Nashville and re-entered the United States! I went to Tennessee to visit my family, stayed for two weeks, which seemed like just about enough (granted, I don't have a very easy time spending time there taking family issues and basic cultural differences into account) and it was quite a shock when I flew in from Buenos Aires. But I knew I still had a road trip across the country with my younger brother ahead of me, and that we were going to have a lot of fun. Aside from all our adventures, there was also the positive news that JP (my brother) had decided to stay and live in Portland near me and get our of out small hometown which can be suffocating. And the fact that I love Portland and Oregon and the people I had been missing so long so much and the prospect of being amidst it all again during summer was a constant happy thought propelling us toward our arrival. We still wanted to really make this trip count, though, and live every moment of it, so that's just what we set out to do.

We started off by driving to Arkansas, camped for the night, but then quickly headed down to Austin. By staying in campgrounds the majority of the trip, we reduced our costs and I also had opportunities to go on some pretty great morning trail runs in extremely varied landscapes, which made me feel good even while riding in the car for hours after.

And Austin was hot! The only thing hotter than the 100plus high humidity drippy day downtown was the steamy night full of bar specials and live music. It's a party town for sure. We met up with a friend of JP's who knew the ropes and hit the town. Just by chance, we caught a really nice live act called The Gospel Truth. And the adventure was underway.

JP and Tara

The Gospel Truth

We stayed in Austin just a couple of days before life in the hot lane started to seem a little too hot for us. Besides that, we were itching to get some more miles under our belts and really get out west. So we headed down the highway through a whole lot of nothing in Texas until we ended up at a big natural spring swimming pool which gave us a bit of relief. Then, on to Carlsbad, NM and the caverns. But not before stopping off at Guadaloupe Mtns National Park, a little known millions-year old reef for some hiking and a geology lesson.

We reserved ahead from Guadeloupe to Carlsbad Caverns National Park for a guided tour, hearing they could all fill up Sundays, and especially during "free-entry fee" promotions. We also saw there that were were signs up saying that the next weekend was a free-entry weekend also. We made plans accordingly to visit the Grand Canyon and Zion Parks during that time...unfortunately only to find out that there had been a typo on the sign and the other weekend was happening in August, not July. So we didn't get to see Zion, after driving all the way up to the gate. Our budget just didn't allow for it. But we did learn a valuable lesson in re-checking and checking again whereever the park service in concerned...

The caverns at Carlsbad were beautiful and cool (the same 62 degress year-round). I felt like an explorer. And a tourist. But that was kind of fun, to be just another tourist enjoying, for once.

On to Sante Fe! The Sante Fe Forest was the most beautiful thing I had seen up to that point. It was a magical experience being there, finally, in the cool, crisp mountains of the west again. A feeling of being home overcame me, and I couldn't help shedding a tear. I had often felt while traveling that I was a perpetual stranger, and that I had lost a sense that there was anywhere in the world I truly belonged. In Sante Fe I could feel home as mountains, trees, and a place that was seeming ever closer as we drove west.

A short stop in Colorado gave us a taste of the "upscale" Rockies. We camped at a KOA outside of Durango in order to take showers--pretty upscale for us. Then it was straight on to Moab! Aside from the horrible beer, we really enjoyed the time out we took there staying at the Dead Horse Point state campground, rafting the Colorado River, trail running, and all-day hikes through Arches and Canyonands National Parks.

I helped row. The truth was the easier-river option cost a third the price of the more exciting class 4 rapids upstream, and it was just too much, so our adventure downstream was disturbed by barely a ripple. While still really fun, I got a bit stir-crazy after 7 hours aboard. So I volunteered to row and enjoyed jumping in and swimming with JP. He accidentally lost his glasses...but wasn't too upset by it.

"before" photo, with-glasses

Arches National Park and Canyonlands, neighboring each other, were both very dry, very hot, and very beautiful, with rocks that made me want to get back to Oregon just to climb. We drank lots and lots of water and remained constantly thirsty.

Landscape Arch

Delicate Arch

We stopped at an amazing watering hole near Moab and immediately got filled with the spirit of the high desert and of sweet relief.

I pretended to have conquered the Canyonlands after our last hike there, but it was all a rouse. The canyonlands really conquered us. But it definitely brought us together in the process. When we got to the Grand Canyon, we felt ready for adventure, come what may. What we weren't expecting were the throngs in the desert. Masses of tourists clogged even difficult trails. We camped, ventured into the canyon 3 miles down (I ran up and down) then made our way swiftly out, to California.

At Pismo Beach, we camped on the beach and were refreshed and surprised by the cool weather. We had to drive out in the little Toyota sedan, and JP, not ever having driven in sand before, ran straight into fresh white fluff. We spent the next while getting help pushing out, but eventually did arrive unscathed (save our simmering cooped-up-together in a car for two weeks clashes which were mild in general).

Then we struck gold. We got to Big Sur. And the beauty of the west coast and journey on into the Northwest could really get rolling. I felt in my element completely. I was so happy to be back.

We got to Big Sur without campground reservations, because everything had been all booked up for months, pretty much. But, luckily, we found a campground on a first-come basis called Andrew Molera that said full, but we decided to venture in to the .4 mile walk-in sites, just to see what was up. And there were lots of sites. Apparently, the sign always says that. Your guess is as good as mine why. But we stayed two nights, had an amazing stay, and hiked 10 miles the next day. So. Breathtaking.

sunning on our own private little beach

San Fransisco! We hit it quick and just went through to get a taste of it. We met up with my friend Olivia from the Bay Area whom I met in Bariloche and had lunch on Haight street. I managed to buy some clothes and we got a 53$ parking ticket after having paid 5$ and being 5 minutes late. Pretty productive all and all. With the ticket and driving being so stressful, we realized we weren't going to make it all the way to our already-paid-for site in the redwoods that night. Thankfully, our aunt Beth angelically offered to fund a stress-free night in a hotel room on the coast and wouldn't take no for an answer. It was deliciously restful and wonderful. Our trip was always a truly family affair, but it sure felt good to know just how supported and loved we were. Thank you Beth!

Then we made it to Oregon! And just in time to meet up with and camp with my long-time friend Thomas, who is working as a botanist at the Oregon Caves. We went on a great coastal hike and ate pizza. Oh so good to be back with old friends I love in the land that I adore!!!

yum?

Two days ago we made it to Portland! It feels like such a wild ride, everything, and I've been gone for almost a year(!) but this still feels every bit like home to me. We are both staying with Erin, my beautiful wonderful friend in North Portland, while I do what I need to before school starts and my brother looks for a place of his own and gets more or less on his feet. We've got a lot ahead of us, and at times it scares me to death. But I realize that before I left on my South American travels I was frightened too. Everything about the future was unknown, just like it is now. But I'm realizing that that's the norm, maybe--or at least the norm when I'm taking steps in my life and changing it and risking failure but also risking success and just plain old following my dreams. And that's a joyful kind of feeling, so I'm going with it. I'm ready for what will come, and I'm happy to have seen the world and met so many wonderful new friends--and also to be back with the people I love, including my brother here now too. I'm glad not to be able to see or know exactly what the future holds for me, and that my life will change again in ways I can't possibly imagine, but that it will all make me a stronger, wiser, and more full-filled person. It's a challenge I'm excited to accept. It's a challenge I welcome just as this beautiful land has welcomed me back in the very whistling of the wind through the Douglas fir trees. Hello again, old friend. I missed you too.