40 Miles of Home: Playing on the Dunes, Backpacking the Olympics, and a Portland Interlude

Michelle and I at the Oregon Dunes, being awesome

Since I've been back in Portland, I've had my share of eventfulness and business, even though I had imagined at one point that this time would mostly be a restful period for me, full of reunions, preparation for my shift to life in Corvallis (75 miles or so south of Portland) and graduate school. But, as usual, I have tended to find plenty of odds and ends to fill up my time. I have loved seeing and being so close to beloved friends after such a prolonged absence. When I think about how they're near, I am happy and excited about spending more time building relationships with them. I am also hopeful about new relationships (the ones I hope to make in my new school town), along with maintaining the others. While I still miss or think about my traveling lifestyle at many points during the day, I also have lots to do here and am already back into the swing of things and enjoying it. I have some work to do, the means and time to do it, and I'm actually feeling pretty ready to be creative and productive while continuing to reflect on my travels, my traveling friends, the places I've been to and everything I've experienced or learned.

That being said, I have really been anxious about and already getting back into the adventures which I am so fond of, those which allow me to be goofy and free and me while also challenging my skills and attitude and bringing me closer in another relationship--the one between me and the beautiful land that I call home. From the Oregon Coast, to the Olympic Peninsula, to the jagged mountains of the central Washington Cascades and the Columbia River Gorge, I have been feeling really excited to be back in all of these beautiful places I love and identify with. It isn't that Patagonia was lacking anything at all--except that beautiful feeling of home that makes me feel like an integrated and unique part of my own environment. It isn't to say that one day I might not feel that way about the Argentine Lakes District, for instance (if fact I already feel that I do have a part of my home there, and a part of me will always be from there now, belong there, feel the need to return), but I am extremely content to be back in the Pacific Northwest for a change, for a while, for now.

So recently I was asked by my awesome and adventurous friend Amy to accompany her on a week-long backpacking mission in Olympic National Park on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. We planned a week, then met up and rode together into the park to camp the Monday night before at Deer Park campground, on top of a mountain on the north end of the national park.

One the night before we divvied up the goods in order to pack as light as possible.

Here we are at the trailhead on Tues. morning. Ready for a long 4-mile steep downhill hike and then 8 miles through a river valley and up the side of another mountain about 4,000 ft towards Grey Wolf Pass on a primitive trail to camp at Cedar Lake

Unidentified but strikingly bright tree fungi.

The Olympic mtn ridge on the side of the first river valley (Grey Wolf)

We were informed that the bears pretty rarely bothered hikers, but in order to keep them that way (wild) it was important to carry a bear bin, always hang extra stuff high in trees, and also be responsible about food or smelly stuff like suntan lotion. For the bears' sake, we were sure to do all we could, including packing everything out with us that we brought in.

Me: constantly awestruck and in total bliss (when I wasn't complaining about aching muscles or blackflies, of course)

What a beautiful place to swim! Glacial Cedar Lake in an off-trail hike up pretty steep terrain with some obstacles to overcome, but highly recommended. Thanks to the Park employee at the Wilderness Info Center that recommended it to us. The WIC of Olympic Park is also a recommended visit, by the way, and you can also call them to plan ahead for permits or whatever you might need. They also rent bear canisters.

In the morning we were both kind of stiff, but in good spirits. Breakfast is always a favorite meal: mmm, oatmeal and chocolaty fruity trail mix or cheesy grits. That's right. Cheesy grits (polenta and chedder mixed in).

The weather couldn't have been better. It is rare in the Olympics even in August to have 4 or 5 consecutive days of clear skies and over 80 degree heat. Good for swimming in any river we spotted and washing off the sweat (also recommended if you share a 2-man tent like we did).

Cedar Lake

Greay Wolf Pass: to get to the pass we used the "social trail" (for deer, marmots, and us!) up to and there rejoined the regular trail down into the Dosey Wallops River valley.

Back down...

I liked the little primitive backpacking campsites every now and then along the trail. They gave a feel of a homey, lived-in space where travelers often stop to make camp after long days of hiking. And they were kind of long...on average 12 miles per day sometimes gaining and then losing 4000 feet or more...our trek would total out at 40 miles in the end, over 3.5 days.

At Lost Pass, then Cameron Pass we saw what are surely some of the most beautiful views in the whole of the Park, depending on your preference, on a gorgeous and clear day. It was just windy enough up there to eliminate annoyance from blackflies. Bonus.

6,450 ft

We followed the last river valley through a mostly-marsh all the way back the point where we originally dropped down right at the foot of Blue Mountain, atop which rests the original campground where our car was parked.

On Friday morning, we prepared to ascend Blue Mountain from Three Forks Campground back to Deer Park. About 4,000 feet in abut 4.5 miles. We started about 9:30 and were back at the trailhead at noon. Then it was time to lounge on the beach, eat fudge, and think about all we'd seen and done in the wilderness!

It is so beautiful, even with partial cloud-cover on Friday, that I have to take a moment and try to breathe in thoughts about how it made me feel every time I look back at the pictures.

On the beach with Amy

Now I'm thinking about how I am spending my time in Portland and getting to be outside all I can while finding a place to live in my new town, enjoying staying with and spending time with good friends, and focusing on landing some interesting work at the University. I'm also excited about building up gradually and maintaining a new web site, www.rachaelcate.wordpress.com, which I want to use at more of a professional outlet and showcase for some of my work/projects/online portfolio. Check it out if you're interested in reading some more varied work of mine. I'll also continue to post my latest adventures here, for the time being!

-Rachael